Worcester Vista - a view of Worcester, articles and photos about the City of Worcester

Garden Structures - Garden sheds, greenhouses, cloches, cold frames, fencing and patios. How to choose them them, maintain and use them.

The Garden Shed
If you have a garden, large or small, it is useful to have a shed, it's a place to keep the lawnmower and gardening tools, and somewhere to put those items you don’t use now but don’t want to throw away. It can be a good place to escape from the other half.

If you are thinking of buying a shed. First, where to position, should be carefully con-sidered, most are located at the bottom of the garden, but if you erect nearer the house, it will be easier to provide a power supply, if required at a later date.

Next think about how large a shed will be suitable for your requirements. If you want to use your shed just to store tools, and the lawnmower, a smaller size will be sufficient. But if intending to become an enthusiastic gardener, or if requiring to use as a work-shop, something larger may be needed.

After deciding where to site what size, and what it's use will be, next think about con-struction materials.
Sheds can be made. In wood, metal or even concrete, but wood is probably the best choice.

Sheds come complete with floor, but if you want it to last, put it on a base, lay slabs or have a builder put down a base of concrete. Make sure the correct measurements have been provided. A good plan is to obtain floor bearers when ordering the shed, to be placed under the floor; these should keep it completely dry, prolonging its life.

The shed supplier should be able to deliver and erect, although putting up a shed is not a difficult job, it does require two able bodied people. The first option is best.

After you have your shed built, you can start to fit it out by putting up shelves and maybe make a workbench. Also put up racks for your gardening tools, to keep them tidy. A rack can easily be made out of a length of 4in x 2in with 1 inch dowels at 2 inch centres.
If a power supply is required, this can be done, by laying an underground cable from the house, but if you are not competent yourself, you must get a qualified electrician to do this. A power point and a strip light can also be installed at this time.

A final job is to give your new acquisition a coat of good quality wood preserver, in the shade of your choice, and repeat annually.

Choosing a Greenhouse
A greenhouse can be made of wood aluminium or even plastic. The best types are made of cedarwood, but these are the most expensive. Some softwood types are cheap, but expensive to maintain. Aluminium greenhouses are cheaper and need little or no maintenance. Plastic greenhouses are the cheapest, but not very pleasing to look at. They have a short life, but should last three years.

Many different styles of greenhouse are available, ranging from conventional to the specialist types. Small octagonal greenhouses can be made of wood or aluminium, will fit in small gardens and can be a focal point; they maximise use of space. The downside, Quite expensive for the size.

The traditional span greenhouse is the most practical in terms of space, and cost.

Where space is at a premium, a lean-to may provide the answer, providing you have a suitable outside wall that has a mixture of sun and shade throughout the day. Very similar to a conservatory, they can be used in the same way.

Where visual appearance is not important, a poly tunnel may be suitible.a metal frame is covered with heavy-duty plastic, a reasonably cheap way for growing crops. Ventilation can be a problem,

A traditional greenhouse should be sited North to South for optimum light. Make sure ground is completely level before building a brick base, to the manufacturers specifications. Alternatively concrete sections may be available, that fix together.
A Wooden greenhouse just requires bolting together to erect, and fixing to the base. Most glazing is carried out dry; some types may need putty, but should not present any problems.

Aluminium greenhouses are usually supplied in prefabricated structures; the gables and sides are in sections. The parts are simply bolted together and attached to the special base. The glazing is simply carried out using using glazing strips and clips
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The Coldframe
If you have a greenhouse a coldframe is essential, allowing plants to be hardened off, when transferring from greenhouse ready for planting out. Several types are available, made in wood or aluminium. If you are handy with a saw, make your own out of reclaimed timber, or brickwork with a timber lid. The minimum useful size for a coldframe is 4ft x2ft.

Cloches
Cloches are used mainly for growing vegetables, but can be used for any plant requiring protection early in the season. Cloches come in a few designs. A tent cloche is simply two pieces of glass clipped together to form a tent. A tunnel cloche is made with steel hoops covered in heavy duty plastic.

Laying a Patio
A patio is a useful feature to any garden; there is a variety of suitable paving available in all colours, shapes and sizes.

A little care is required when siting and constructing. A sunny position should be selected, preferably near the house.

Draw a plan to calculate how many slabs will be required. Your local builder's merchant will be able to advise and should have a good selection. He will also arrange delivery.

After deciding on position, size and colour of slabs, good patios have good foundations. Begin by marking out the site, with pegs and builders line, allowing a slight fall for drainage, and removing topsoil. The depth should be the thickness of the slab plus 1.5 ins. thickness of concrete plus 4 ins.for hard-core. The base should be compacted using a "compactor" you can hire these from your local hire shop.

Next the slabs can be laid on mortar mix 1-part cement, 5- parts sharp sand. Use a trowel to spread mortar to a uniform thickness. Place slab and tamp gently with a rubber mallet until level, continue with the next allowing 0.25ins.gap and check with a spirit level. Continue until complete. After allowing mortar to set, usually two or three days fill the joints with an almost dry mortar mix, keeping off the slab surface to avoid staining.

Patio Planters and Containers
An easy way to brighten up your patio or any part of your garden is by planting in containers. They can also be used to conceal unsightly drain covers. A tub placed near the front door can make a fragrant and colourful welcome.

Almost any plant can be put in a container, avoid using very tall plants, plants that require boggy conditions should not be put in containers.

A huge variety of planters are sold by garden centres, in all shapes and sizes, made in Terracotta, Aluminium, Zinc, Teak, Softwood, Concrete, and Plastic.

Almost anything can be used or adapted to hold plants, old chimney pots look effective, when filled with plants. Even old coal scuttles, sinks, or cattle troughs can be utilised. Oak barrels sawn in half make excellent patio planters.

Select containers to suit your plants, for instance Alpines thrive best in a shallow tray or trough. Plants such as small shrubs and dwarf conifers require deeper tubs.

Plan where you want to place your containers on the patio, as once they are filled with soil and plants, become very heavy to move, remember space is required all around for watering and tending the plants.

When planting containers, begin by placing broken crocks over the drainage holes, then add drainage material, to about a quarter of the containers depth, coarse gravel or larger stone can be used. Next add the planting material, John Innes potting compost is best, but good garden soil is an alternative, mix first with peat and add fertiliser.
With a trowel begin planting, always put the tallest plants in the centre of the tub first and continue placing smaller plants around until filled.

When your tubs and containers are filled remember to give a high potash fertiliser weekly to keep your plants in good condition. Also water frequently, even if it rains, still use the hose at least two or three times a week to prevent drying out. Always water in the evening or early morning, do not over water.

Fencing
A wide choice of boundary fencing is available; erecting should be well within the capabilities of the average DIY enthusiast.

Wire Fencing
The cheapest is posts and plastic coated wire, or can be galvanised, but only suitable to define boundary.
Galvanised chain link with angle iron posts makes a tidy fence.

Split Chestnut Fencing

Split Chestnut Uprights, wired together and stapled to stakes, makes a strong stock proof fence quickly. A bit unsightly, but can be easily removed to use elsewhere.

Post and Rail
Wooden posts with two or three rails can be used with galvanised wire netting; this makes an excellent fence. With barbed wire added, will be stock proof. Make sure the posts and rails are pressure treated.

Picket Fence
Vertical wooden pales spaced 2in. Apart, supported on horizontal rails. Plastic types available, requiring less maintenance. Neither offers much security.

Fencing panels
Most popular is fencing panels, interwoven and close boarded. The best type is used with concrete posts, after fixing, panels slide in place. These can have concrete gravel boards along the bottom. This makes a good long lasting job.

Erecting a panelled fence using wooden posts.
Purchase panels and posts, allowing two ft. extra on length of posts, to height of panels, also if using concrete to fix posts in, have sufficient sand gravel and bags of cement to complete the job.
Begin by setting out where fence is to be built. If it's a boundary fence consult your neighbour as to its correct position, and ask him to help. Always remember "good fences make good neighbours".
When replacing an existing fence, use a builder's line to make sure it follows line, of original.
Next dig a hole deep enough, and put in post, at this point make sure it is in the correct position, and conforms to height of fence panel.
Mix and pour cement around post, in wet conditions use dry mix and tamp firmly around post. Using spirit level, make sure post is vertical in all directions, and brace. Allow at least a day for cement to set.
Next offer up a panel and temporary nail to post, checking top of panel is level.
At this point you should be able to see where to dig the next hole. Place post in hole and check height with panel, making sure post is vertical, nail panel to posts, brace post when upright and concrete in.
Continue with remainder, keeping close to builder's line. When fence is complete use capping strips to finish off along top, also cap posts.

Garden Walls
There are many excellent materials to build a garden wall, varying from practical to decorative.
Building a brick wall can be very satisfying as well as therapeutic, and is not as difficult as it looks.

Brick
Facing Brick is sometimes available to match your house. Your local builder's merchant should be able to help, could use contrasting colour.
Engineering bricks are strong and water resistant, They are sometimes used for foundations. Can be used as a soil retaining wall.

Natural Stone
Many different kinds of natural stone, suitable for walls are available.
Can be very expensive, only use natural stone native to your area.
The most common is sandstone, limestone and granite.
The best looking limestone is Portland stone. York stone is the best known sandstone.

Screen Wall Block
Pierced screen blocks are available in different geometric designs, make an attractive alternative to a solid wall.
Needs to be supported by reinforced pillars. Keep below five foot high.

Facing Block
Facing blocks can be used for a garden wall, available with decorative surface. Reconstituted stone blocks also available.

Building a Brick Wall in the Garden
The most important thing to remember, when building a wall. Good foundations are essential. For a wall 3ft. High the foundations should be at least 6ins. deep (8in. of concrete). And at least twice as wide as the wall.
First mark out where you want the wall using pegs and builders line. Dig out and level, using spirit level across pegs.
Height of foundations should be just below the surface. Mix concrete pour and tamp with a length of wood, level with pegs. Allow to dry for a few days before continuing. Next start laying the bricks on a half inch bed of mortar. "Running bond" is easiest.
The builder's line should be used to keep wall in a straight line. The spirit level is used to keep wall vertical and horizontal.
When reaching the second course, a brick will have to be chopped in half, to ensure joints do not coincide, (use a lump hammer and a bolster to do this).
Continue using spirit level, tamping bricks with trowel handle, until level, and keeping close to the line
Finish the wall by pointing, gaps in the mortar can be made good with mortar using the pointing trowel.

Siting a pool
A pool should be sited away from trees, in an open position, and where it will be in sunlight for at least half a day.
Try to site the pool relative to the surrounding garden, and where it will be a decorative feature.
A pool can reflect garden plants or feature such as a statue. And can become the focal point of the garden.

Constructing a pool
After deciding on a suitable site, first mark out the shape of the pool. An easy way is to use the hosepipe, and lay it in the shape required, before digging the soil out.
You could of course use a preformed shell, but as with all pools, must be perfectly level.
After making the required shape, tap in four pegs around the perimeter, and level using a spirit level and a length of straight timber.
Dig out the pool and slope the sides. A shelve could be left 9ins. Wide by 9ins. Deep, to allow marginal planting. After digging out to the required depth, usually about two ft.put a layer of sand in the bottom and around the sloping sides use loft insulation, or you could use the special under lining quilt.
Next unfold the butyl liner, and place in the excavation, making sure the liner is equally positioned around the pool. Begin to fill the pool slowly removing any creases that form.
When the pool is full, trim off surplus liner. Finish off around the top of the pool by bedding coping stones in mortar, overlapping edge.